Acheta domesticus: A Natural Source of Anti-Skin-Aging Ingredients for Cosmetic Applications.

Acheta domesticus is an edible insect, rich in nutritional value and considered a sustainable protein source. This study aimed to investigate the potential application of A. domesticus extracts for anti-skin-aging purposes. The extracts were prepared by maceration at ambient temperature with 95% ethanol or hexane and maceration in gentle heat (45 °C) with 95% v/v ethanol or DI water. The extracts were examined for total protein, phenolic, and flavonoid contents. Protein molecular weight distribution was analyzed. The safety of the extracts was investigated in terms of irritation and cytotoxicity. Biological activities relevant to the inhibition of skin aging were evaluated, including increasing transforming growth factor-beta 1 (TGF-ß1) expression and inhibitory activities on collagenase and hyaluronidase. The aqueous extract from maceration in gentle heat had the highest total protein content (63 ± 1% w/w), total phenolic content (0.48 ± 0.03 mg GAE/g extract), TGF-ß1 stimulating activities (33 ± 2 pg/mL), and collagenase inhibition (with a half maximal inhibitory concentration of 26 ± 1 µg/mL) among various extracts investigated. It caused no irritation to the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane and showed no cytotoxicity to human dermal fibroblasts and peripheral blood mononuclear cells. Therefore, aqueous A. domesticus extract is proposed as an innovative natural anti-skin-aging ingredient.

Optimization of Hydrolysis Conditions, Isolation, and Identification of Biologically Active Peptides Derived from Acheta domesticus for Antioxidant and Collagenase Inhibition.

The study aimed to optimize hydrolysis conditions and isolate and identify bioactive peptides with anti-skin aging effects from Acheta domesticus (house cricket). A. domesticus proteins underwent hydrolysis using Alcalase® and optimized conditions using response surface methodology through a face-centered central composite design. Variable controls (enzyme-substrate concentration (E/S), time, and temperature) were assessed for their impact on activities against collagenase, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH●), and degree of hydrolysis of protein hydrolysate (PH). PH was also investigated for composition, anti-skin aging, and anti-inflammatory effects. Amino acid sequences with potent anti-skin aging activity were isolated and identified using ultrafiltration, gel filtration chromatography, and liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry, employing de novo sequencing. Optimal conditions for producing PH with maximum anti-skin aging activity were an E/S concentration of 2.1% (w/w), 227 min, and 61.5 °C. Glutamic acid was a predominant amino acid and PH exhibited a molecular weight below 15 kDa. Additionally, PH displayed significant activities against collagenase, hyaluronidase, DPPH●, lipid peroxidation, and NF-κB-mediated inflammation (p < 0.05). Three novel anti-skin aging peptides were identified-Ala-Val-Thr-Lys-Ala-Asp-Pro-Tyr-Thr-Asp-Gln, Thr-Val-Met-Glu-Leu-Asn-Asp-Leu-Val-Lys-Ala-Phe, and Val-Pro-Leu-Leu-Glu-Pro-Trp-exhibiting the most potent collagenase and DPPH● inhibition. Therefore, this study proposed that PH, produced with Alcalase® under optimal conditions, emerges as a promising substance with potent anti-skin aging activity for the cosmeceutical industry.

Antimicrobial Properties Related to Anti-Acne and Deodorant Efficacy of Hedychium coronarium J. Koenig Extracts from Pulsed Electric Field Extraction.

This study investigated the potential of pulsed electric field (PEF) extraction in enhancing the antimicrobial properties related to anti-acne and deodorant properties of Hedychium coronarium extract. The dried leaf and rhizome of H. coronarium were extracted using 95% v/v ethanol through both conventional solvent extraction and PEF extraction techniques (10, 14, and 20 kV/cm). The chemical composition of the extracts was analyzed. The antimicrobial activities, specifically in relation to acne treatment against Cutibacterium acnes and deodorant properties against Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Micrococcus luteus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Escherichia coli, were determined. The irritation profile of was evaluated using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test. The results showed that PEF extraction increased the extract yield, particularly at an electric field strength of 20 kV/cm. Furthermore, PEF extraction significantly enhanced the ellagic acid content, particularly in the leaf extract. Furthermore, the leaf extract demonstrated stronger inhibitory effects against microorganisms associated with body odor and acne compared to the rhizome extract. Notably, all extracts exhibited no signs of irritation, indicating their safety. Overall, the findings suggest that PEF extraction from H. coronarium enhances yield, bioactive compound content, and antimicrobial effects. This indicates the potential of the extract for acne treatment and deodorant use.

The Fatty Acid Compositions, Irritation Properties, and Potential Applications of Teleogryllus mitratus Oil in Nanoemulsion Development.

This study aimed to characterize and investigate the potential of the oils from Gryllus bimaculatus, Teleogryllus mitratus, and Acheta domesticus to be used in nanoemulsions. The oils were extracted by a cold press method and characterized for their fatty acid profiles. Their irritation effects on the chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) were evaluated, along with investigations of solubility and the required hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (RHLB). Various parameters impacting nanoemulsion generation using high-pressure homogenization were investigated. The findings revealed that G. bimaculatus yielded the highest oil content (24.58% w/w), followed by T. mitratus (20.96% w/w) and A. domesticus (15.46% w/w). Their major fatty acids were palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids. All oils showed no irritation, suggesting safety for topical use. The RHLB values of each oil were around six-seven. However, they could be successfully developed into nanoemulsions using various surfactants. All cricket oils could be used for the nanoemulsion preparation, but T. mitratus yielded the smallest internal droplet size with acceptable PDI and zeta potential. Nanoemulsion was found to significantly enhance the antioxidant and anti-skin wrinkle of the T. mitratus oil. These findings pointed to the possible use of cricket oils in nanoemulsions, which could be used in various applications, including topical and cosmetic formulations.

Promising Anti-Wrinkle Applications of Aromatic Extracts of Hedychium coronarium J. Koenig via Antioxidation and Collagenase Inhibition.

This study aimed to extract aromatic compounds from the rhizomes, leaf sheaths, and leaves of Hedychium coronarium and investigate their chemical compositions, cosmetic/cosmeceutical activities, and irritation potency. The chemical compositions were investigated via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities were evaluated via spectrophotometry. The anti-skin wrinkle properties were investigated via collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. The irritation potency was observed via a hen's egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Eucalyptol was detected as a major component in the rhizomes and leaf sheaths, while ß-caryophyllene was predominant in the leaves. The absolutes from the rhizomes were the strongest antioxidants, with ABTS scavenging properties similar to L-ascorbic acid. Interestingly, the equivalent concentration (EC1) of the absolute from the rhizome was 0.82 ± 0.01 µg FeSO4/g extract, which was significantly more potent than L-ascorbic acid (0.43 ± 0.03 µg FeSO4/g extract). The rhizome-derived absolute was the most effective against collagenase, while the concretes from the rhizomes and leaf sheaths showed promising anti-hyaluronidase activity with inhibitions of 90.5 ± 1.6% and 87.4 ± 5.1%, respectively. The irritability of the aromatic extracts was not different from that of the vehicle control, proving their safety. Therefore, the Hedychium coronarium rhizome-derived absolute was an attractive and potent antioxidant with anti-collagenase activities, indicating its potential for use in anti-aging formulations.

Development of Film-Forming Gel Formulations Containing Royal Jelly and Honey Aromatic Water for Cosmetic Applications.

This study aimed to develop a film-forming gel containing honey aromatic water (HW) and royal jelly (RJ) for cosmetic applications as a facial peel-off mask. HW, which is industrial waste from the water-reduction process of honey, was sterilized by autoclaving and filtration through a 0.22 µm membrane. The film-forming gels were developed using various types of film-forming polymers, including polyvinyl alcohol (PVA 117), carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), and hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC). The gel formulations were characterized in terms of their external appearance, viscosity, pH, and drying time, whereas the films generated were characterized by a texture analyzer, microscopic investigation, Fourier transform infrared, and an X-ray diffractometer. The findings highlighted that HW has short storage shelf life due to microbial contamination. Sterilizations were required before further product development. The film-forming gel was created by using the combination of PVA 117, CMC, and HEC. HW and RJ were successfully incorporated into the film-forming gel. However, HW resulted in a decrease in the gel viscosity and mechanical properties of its film. Interestingly, the drying time was dramatically decreased, which would be more desirable for its use as a peel-off mask. Furthermore, incorporation of royal jelly enhanced the viscosity of the gels as well as improved the mechanical properties of the film. No effect on the chemical and crystal structure of the films was detected after the incorporation. Therefore, the film-forming gels containing HW and RJ, possessing aesthetic attributes that extended to both the gels themselves and the resultant films, were suitable for use as a peel-off mask.

The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection.

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200 µg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

Influence of Benincasa hispida Peel Extracts on Antioxidant and Anti-Aging Activities, including Molecular Docking Simulation.

Benincasa hispida peel, a type of postconsumer waste, is considered a source of beneficial phytochemicals. Therefore, it was subjected to investigation for biological activities in this study. B. hispida peel was extracted using 95% v/v, 50% v/v ethanol and water. The obtained extracts were B95, B50 and BW. B95 had a high flavonoid content (212.88 ± 4.73 mg QE/g extract) and phenolic content (131.52 ± 0.38 mg GAE/g extract) and possessed high antioxidant activities as confirmed by DPPH, ABTS and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Moreover, B95 showed inhibitory effects against collagenase and hyaluronidase with values of 41.68 ± 0.92% and 29.17 ± 0.66%, which related to anti-aging activities. Via the HPLC analysis, one of the potential compounds found in B95 was rutin. Molecular docking has provided an understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying the interaction of extracts with collagenase and hyaluronidase. All extracts were not toxic to fibroblast cells and did not irritate the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane, which indicated its safe use. In conclusion, B. hispida peel extracts are promising potential candidates for further use as antioxidant and anti-aging agents in the food and cosmetic industries.

Enhancing Skin Delivery and Stability of Vanillic and Ferulic Acids in Aqueous Enzymatically Extracted Glutinous Rice Husk by Nanostructured Lipid Carriers.

The present study aimed to develop nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and evaluate their effectiveness in enhancing the delivery and stability of vanillic and ferulic acid in the aqueous enzymatic extract of glutinous rice husk using a 0.5% w/w cellulase solution (CE0.5). NLCs were developed using a high-pressure homogenization technique and characterized for their particle size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential. The entrapment efficiency, physical and chemical stability, release profile, skin permeation, and skin retention of the NLCs loaded with CE0.5 were evaluated. It was observed that NLCs with high entrapment efficiencies efficiently encapsulate and protect both vanillic and ferulic acid, in contrast to a solution. The controlled and sustained release profile of vanillic acid and ferulic acid from NLCs suggests their potential for prolonged and targeted delivery. The findings also demonstrate the superior skin retention capabilities of NLCs without permeation compared to the solution. Notably, NLC2 exhibited the highest delivery into the skin layer, which can be attributed to its smaller particle size (107.3 ± 1.3 nm), enabling enhanced skin penetration. This research highlights the promising application of NLCs in enhancing the delivery and stability of bioactive compounds in cosmetic formulations and related fields.

Biological activities of extracts and compounds from Thai Kae-Lae (Maclura cochinchinensis (Lour.) Corner).

BACKGROUND AND AIMS: The purpose of this study was to investigate the biological properties of Kae-Lae (Maclura cochinchinensis (Lour.) Corner), a traditional medicinal plant used in Ayurvedic recipes in Thailand. To achieve this objective, heartwood samples were collected from 12 sources across Thailand. Fractional extracts (n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and ethanol) and the dominant compounds (morin, resveratrol, and quercetin) were examined for their abilities on cytotoxicity, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antileukaemic activity (Wilms' tumour 1 protein was used as a well-known biomarker for leukaemic cell proliferation). METHODS: The study used MTT to assess cytotoxicity in leukaemic cells (K562, EoL-1, and KG-1a). Antioxidant activities were evaluated using ABTS, DPPH, and FRAP assays. The anti-inflammatory activity was investigated by detecting IL-2, TNF-α, and NO using appropriate detection kits. Wilms' tumour 1 protein expression was measured by Western blotting to determine the anti-leukaemic activity. The inhibition of cell migration was also analyzed to confirm anticancer progression. RESULTS: Among the tested extract fraction, ethyl acetate No. 001 displayed strong cytotoxicity specifically in EoL-1 cells, while n-hexane No. 008 demonstrated this effect in three cell lines. Resveratrol, on the other hand, displayed cytotoxicity in all the tested cells. Additionally, the three major compounds, morin, resveratrol, and quercetin, exhibited significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In particular, resveratrol demonstrated a noteworthy decreased Wilms' tumour 1 protein expression and a reduction in cell proliferation across all cells. Moreover, ethyl acetate No. 001, morin, and resveratrol effectively inhibited MCF-7 cell migration. None of these compounds showed any impact on red blood cell haemolysis. CONCLUSION: Based on these findings, it can be concluded that Kae-Lae has promising chemotherapeutic potential against leukaemic cells, with fractional extracts (ethyl acetate and n-hexane) and resveratrol exhibiting the most potent cytotoxic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cell migration activities.

Enhanced Cosmeceutical Potentials of the Oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer by Nanoemulsions.

Purpose: This study aimed to extract the oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer, evaluate its potential for cosmeceutical applications, and develop nanoemulsions to promote the cosmeceutical capabilities of the oil. Methods: G. bimaculatus oil was produced by the cold pressing method. Its fatty acid compositions were assessed by fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities of the oil were investigated in terms of radical scavengers, reducing power, and lipid peroxidation inhibition. The whitening effects were investigated through anti-tyrosinase activities, whilst the anti-aging effects were investigated through inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The irritant effects were investigated by the hen's egg chorio-allantoic membrane test and the cytotoxicity assay in immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes and human foreskin fibroblast cells. The nanoemulsions were developed, characterized, and evaluated for their stability and cosmeceutical properties. Results: G. bimaculatus oil, rich in linoleic acid (31.08 ± 0.00%), oleic acid (30.44 ± 0.01%), palmitic acid (24.80 ± 0.01%), and stearic acid (7.61 ± 0.00%), demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties in terms of antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-skin ageing activities. Besides, the oil was safe since it induced no irritation or cytotoxicity. G. bimaculatus oil was successfully developed into nanoemulsions, and F1, composed of 1% w/w G. bimaculatus oil, 1.12% w/w polysorbate 80, 0.88% w/w sorbitan oleate, and 97% w/w DI water, had the smallest internal droplet size (53.8 ± 0.6 nm), the narrowest polydispersity index (0.129 ± 0.010), and a pronounced zeta potential (-28.23 ± 2.32 mV). All cosmeceutical activities of the oil were significantly enhanced after incorporation in the nanoemulsions (p < 0.001), particularly the whitening effects. Conclusion: G. bimaculatus oil nanoemulsion was an attractive cosmeceutical formulation with potent whitening effects, along with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Therefore, nanoemulsion technology was found to be an effective strategy for improving the cosmeceutical properties of G. bimaculatus oil.

Postbiotic Metabolite of Lactiplantibacillus plantarum PD18 against Periodontal Pathogens and Their Virulence Markers in Biofilm Formation.

Alternative methods to reduce infectious diseases caused by bacterial pathogens and their virulence factors, biofilm formations, have arisen to reduce the pressure on existing or currently developed disinfectants and antimicrobial agents. The current strategies for reducing the severity of periodontal pathogen-caused disease by using beneficial bacteria and their metabolites are highly desirable. Probiotic strains of lactobacilli related to foods from Thai-fermented foods were selected and their postbiotic metabolites (PM) were isolated with inhibitory activity on periodontal pathogens and their biofilm formation. The PM from Lactiplantibacillus plantarum PD18 (PD18 PM) with the highest antagonistic effect against Streptococcus mutans, Porphyromonas gingivalis, Tannerella forsythia and Prevotella loescheii was selected from 139 Lactobacillus isolates. The minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum biofilm inhibitory concentration (MBIC) values of PD18 PM against the pathogens ranged from 1:2 to 1:4. The PD18 PM demonstrated the ability to prevent the biofilm formation of S. mutans and P. gingivalis by showing a significant reduction in viable cells, high percentages of biofilm inhibition at 92.95 and 89.68%, and the highest effective contact times at 5 and 0.5 min, respectively. L. plantarum PD18 PM showed potential as a promising natural adjunctive agent to inhibit periodontal pathogens and their biofilms.

Efficacy and Safety of the Genistein Nutraceutical Product Containing Vitamin E, Vitamin B3, and Ceramide on Skin Health in Postmenopausal Women: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial.

Skin aging is one of the most concerning issues that occur after menopause. The Genistein Nutraceutical (GEN) product, containing genistein, vitamin E, vitamin B3, and ceramide, has been formulated as a topical anti-aging product for improving the health of postmenopausal women's facial skin. This study aimed to investigate the efficacy and safety of the GEN product on postmenopausal women's facial skin. This randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial randomly assigned 50 postmenopausal women to receive either the GEN product (n = 25) or the placebo (PLA) product (n = 25), topically applied twice daily for 6 weeks. The outcome assessments included multiple skin parameters related to skin wrinkling, color, hydration, and facial skin quality at baseline and week 6. The percentage mean changes or absolute mean changes, where appropriate, in skin parameters were compared between the two groups. The mean age of the participants was 55.8 ± 3.4 years. For skin wrinkling and skin color parameters, only skin redness was significantly higher in the GEN group when compared to the PLA group. Following the application of the GEN product, skin hydration increased while fine pores and their area decreased. Subgroup analysis of older women (age ≥ 56 years) with adequate compliance found significant differences between the two groups in the percentage mean changes of most skin wrinkle parameters. The GEN product has benefits for the facial skin of postmenopausal women, particularly those who are older. It can moisturize facial skin, lessen wrinkles, and enhance redness.

Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Attenuating Intracellular Reactive Oxygen Species Activities of Nicotiana tabacum var. Virginia Leaf Extract Phytosomes and Shape Memory Gel Formulation.

Oxidative stress is one of the major causes of skin aging. In this study, the shape memory gels containing phytosomes were developed as a delivery system for Nicotiana tabacum var. Virginia fresh (VFL) and dry (VDL) leaf extracts. The extracts were loaded in the phytosomes by a solvent displacement method. The physical and chemical characteristics and stability of phytosomes were evaluated by dynamic light scattering and phytochemistry, respectively. The in vitro antioxidant activity and intracellular reactive oxygen species reduction of phytosomes and/or extracts were investigated by the DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays, FRAP assay, and DCFH-DA fluorescent probe. The cytotoxicity and anti-inflammatory activity of VDL and VFL phytosomes were studied by an MTT and a nitric oxide assay, respectively. Here, we first reported the total phenolic content in the dry leaf extract of N. tabacum var. Virginia was significantly greater than that of the fresh leaf extract. The HPLC analysis results revealed that VDL and VFL extracts contained 4.94 ± 0.04 and 3.13 ± 0.01 µg/mL of chlorogenic acid and 0.89 ± 0.00 and 0.24 ± 0.00 µg/mL of rutin, respectively. The phytosomes of the VDL and VFL extracts displayed stable size, polydispersity index, zeta potential values, and good chemical stability. VDL and VDL phytosomes showed higher phenolic and flavonoid contents which showed stronger DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging effects and reduced the intracellular ROS. The results suggested that the phenolic compounds are the main factor in their antioxidant activity. Both VDL and VFL phytosomes inhibited nitric oxide production induced by LPS, suggesting the anti-inflammatory activity of the phytosomes. The shape memory gel containing VDL and VFL phytosomes had good physical stability in terms of pH and viscosity. The VDL and VFL phytosomes dispersed in the shape memory gels can be considered as a promising therapeutic delivery system for protecting the skin from oxidation and reactive oxygen species.

Ultrasound-assisted green extraction methods: An approach for cosmeceutical compounds isolation from Macadamia integrifolia pericarp.

This study aimed was to examine the potential of several green extraction methods to extract cosmetic/cosmeceutical components from Macadamia integrifolia pericarps, which were a by-product of the macadamia nut industry. M. integrifolia pericarps were extracted by conventional solvent extraction process using 95% v/v ethanol and various green extraction methods, including infusion, ultrasound, micellar, microwave, and pulsed electric field extraction using water as a clean and green solvent. The extracts were evaluated for total phenolic content using Folin-Ciocalteu method.The antioxidant activities were evaluated by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), ferric reducing/antioxidant power, and ferric-thiocyanate method. The anti-skin ageing activities were investigated by means of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition using enzyme-substrate reaction assay. The irritation profile of the extracts was evaluated by the hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results noted that ultrasound-assisted extraction yielded the significantly highest extract amount with the significantly highest total phenolic content (p < 0.05), especially when the extraction time was 10 min. The aqueous extract from ultrasound-assisted extraction possessed the most potent antioxidant and anti-skin ageing activities (p < 0.05). Its antioxidant activities were comparable to ascorbic acid and Trolox, whereas the anti-skin ageing activities were equivalent to epigallocatechin-3-gallate and oleanolic acid. Besides, the extract was safe since it induced no irritation in the HET-CAM test. Therefore, ultrasound-assisted extraction was suggested as an environmentally friendly extraction method for M. integrifolia pericarp extraction and further application in the cosmetic/cosmeceutical industries.

Mushroom ß-Glucan Recovered from Antler-Type Fruiting Body of Ganoderma lucidum by Enzymatic Process and Its Potential Biological Activities for Cosmeceutical Applications.

Mushrooms are incredibly valuable macro fungi that are an important and integral part of the ecosystem. In addition to being used as cuisine, mushrooms have been used for medicinal purposes for many centuries. This research applied a process for recovering ß-glucan (BG) from the antler-type fruiting body of Ganoderma lucidum as well as tested the biological activities related to cosmeceutical applications. The characterization of complex structure was performed by fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) and nuclear magnetic resonance (MNR) spectroscopies. The obtained extract contained 40.57% BG and 7.47% protein, with the detectable bioactivities of anti-tyrosinase and antioxidation. Consequently, it showed the activity that can be used to whiten the skin by reducing or inhibiting the process of skin pigmentation. The BG also showed moderate activities of anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase. The test by the HET-CAM confirmed no skin irritation of the complex extract. Based on human peripheral blood mononuclear cell (PBMC) test, the BG had no significant inhibiting effect on cell viability. In addition, the obtained BG had functional properties higher than commercially available BG, especially oil-binding capacity. These findings provided new insights into the potential application of G. lucidum BG as a polymeric material in the cosmeceutical industries.

Phytochemical, Antioxidant, Antihyaluronidase, Antityrosinase, and Antimicrobial Properties of Nicotiana tabacum L. Leaf Extracts.

Nicotiana tabacum L. (tobacco) is an important and valuable crop for the cigarette industry. However, cigarette cessation has been encouraged worldwide. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the potential of N. tabacum leaf extract use in other industries besides cigarette production, especially cosmeceutical industries, which are of interest for increasing the value and widening the applications of N. tabacum. The leaves of N. tabacum var. Virginia and Turkish were extracted by maceration using 95% v/v ethanol or petroleum ether. The extracts were evaluated for their phytochemical compositions, antioxidant capacity, and anti-aging, antimelanogenic, and antimicrobial activities. The phytochemical screening of the extracts revealed terpenoids, steroids, alkaloids, tannins, and carbohydrates in all of the N. tabacum leaf extracts. The total phenolic content was detected to be the highest in the ethanolic extract of Virginia tobacco leaf, which had the most significantly potent antioxidant and antihyaluronidase activity (P < 0.05). On the contrary, the extracts from the Turkish variety demonstrated the most powerful antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. Thus, ethanolic extracts of N. tabacum var. Virginia are suggested as good natural anti-aging ingredients with potent antioxidant and antihyaluronidase effects, whereas the leaf of N. tabacum var. Turkish is suggested as a good source of natural antimicrobial components, particularly for S. aureus inhibition. In summary, in addition to the cigarette industry, N. tabacum leaf could be a source of pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical compounds, particularly natural anti-aging and antimicrobial ingredients.

Potential cosmeceutical lamellar liquid crystals containing black longan (Dimocarpus longan Lour.) seed extract for MMP-1 and hyaluronidase inhibition.

The aims of this study were to evaluate the biological activities of black Dimocarpus longan Lour. seed extracts and develop a lamellar liquid crystal (LLC). Different solvents, including petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, and 95% v/v ethanol, were used in the maceration of black D. longan seeds. The inhibitory activities on matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and hyaluronidase were evaluated. The irritating potency of D. longan seed extracts was determined using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test. The extract with the strongest anti-ageing activities and no irritant impact was examined for its chemical contents using high-performance liquid chromatography and incorporated into the LLC. Various factors affecting the LLC formulations, including surfactant types and amounts, thickening agent types and amounts, and various oil types, were investigated. The results demonstrated that the ethyl acetate extract (EtOAc) was the most potent inhibitor of MMP-1 (IC50 = 21.7 ± 5.4 µg/mL) and hyaluronidase (oleanolic acid equivalent = 0.44 ± 0.03 g per g extract). Interestingly, its MMP-1 inhibition was equivalent to that of oleanolic acid, corilagin, and gallic acid. Furthermore, its hyaluronidase inhibition was equivalent to that of gallic acid and ellagic acid. Gallic acid, which was the most abundant compound (15.6% ± 0.06% w/w) was suggested as the compound responsible for the biological activities of EtOAc extract. Considering its potential anti-skin ageing properties with no irritation of EtOAc extract, it was incorporated into the most suitable LLC, which was composed of 5% w/w Lexfeel® D5 oil, 0.5% w/w Carbopol® U21, 2% w/w Liquid Crystal Cream Maker, and 92.5% w/w DI water. The LLC containing EtOAc extract presented birefringence under a polarizing light microscope, indicating its crystallinity. The formulation had good stability after heating-cooling cycles in terms of external appearance, crystallinity, viscosity, and pH (5.5). As a result, it is recommended as a potential cosmeceutical formulation for anti-skin wrinkling. It is proposed that more research be conducted on the safety and efficacy of the treatment on human volunteers.

Antileukaemic Cell Proliferation and Cytotoxic Activity of Edible Golden Cordyceps (Cordyceps militaris) Extracts.

Golden cordyceps (Cordyceps militaris) is a mushroom of the genus Cordyceps. It has been used as a food supplement for both healthy and ill people. In this study, the antileukaemic cell proliferation activities of golden cordyceps extracts were examined and compared with standard cordycepin (CDCP) in EoL-1, U937, and KG-1a cells. Wilms' tumour 1 (WT1) protein was used as a biomarker of leukaemic cell proliferation. The cytotoxicity of the extracts on leukaemic cells was determined using the MTT assay. Their inhibitory effects on WT1 protein expression and cell cycle progression of EoL-1 cells were investigated using Western blotting and flow cytometry, respectively. Induction of KG-1a cell differentiation (using CD11b as a marker) was determined using flow cytometry. The golden cordyceps extracts exhibited cytotoxic effects on leukaemic cells with the highest IC50 value of 16.5 ± 3.9 µg/mL, while there was no effect on normal blood cells. The expression levels of WT1 protein in EoL-1 cells were decreased after treatment with the extracts. Moreover, cell cycle progression and cell proliferation were inhibited. The levels of CD11b increased slightly following the treatment. All these findings confirm the antileukaemic proliferation activity of golden cordyceps.

Enhancement of Cholinesterase Inhibition of Alpinia galanga (L.) Willd. Essential Oil by Microemulsions.

This study aimed to investigate the chemical composition and reveal the selective inhibitory activity of Alpinia galanga (L.) Willd. essential oil (AGO) on acetylcholinesterase (AChE) compared to butyrylcholinesterase (BChE). The chemical composition of AGO was investigated by means of gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Ellman's method was used to determine the inhibitory activities against AChE and BChE. Microemulsion systems with desirable anticholinesterase effects were developed. Methyl cinnamate and 1,8-cineole were reported as the major component of AGO. The IC50 values of A. galanga oil against AChE and BChE were 24.6 ± 9.6 and 825.4 ± 340.1 µg/mL, respectively. The superior selectivity of AGO on AChE (34.8 ± 8.9) compared to galantamine hydrobromide (6.4 ± 1.5) suggested AGO to be an effective ingredient with fewer side effects for Alzheimer's treatment. Interestingly, the microemulsion of AGO possessed significantly higher anticholinesterase activity than that of native oil alone. Therefore, microemulsion of AGO is a promising alternative approach for the treatment of Alzheimer's disease.